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You Say Fashion, We Say Beer.

We saw no billboards, signs or sexy shop windows announcing the upcoming fashion week in Milan. Brera and Via Montenapoleone specialize in upscale window dressing, but on the streets there were no...

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A Grandame of Globalization: Genoa

As the train pulled away from Milan’s graffiti-encrusted suburbs, the concrete retreated with each clickety-clack and we were treated increasingly to majestic palazzi perched on hills. Destination...

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Cinque Terre Ruined by Rick Steves

In response to my request for a 3-day apartment rental in Vernazza, I received the following email: “Mrs. Villa is an 80 year-old woman. She uses no technology. You may have trouble finding the house...

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How to Enjoy Florence if You Don’t Like Art

She Said:   The Tuscan hills are shrouded in clouds this morning, and the forecasters say the rain will last. I will take it as a sign to cool off. I bought the Firenze Card, a perhaps overpriced...

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How to Enjoy A Rainy Day in Lucca (iPhoneEssay)

Lucca was a  highlight of our trip through this part of the region, but our day there was a wash. You can see how empty the streets and main square were. There was a wine tent in the main square that...

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Why Venice is Like Beer

Murano’s artisan glass has become cheapened by the scourge of tatty tourism, but like Venice itself, Murano glass is a gem worth exploring in greater depth by the diligent courtesan. All visitors...

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